Written by Holly Matthews, our Product Development Manager, this diary offers a personal reflection on some of her favourite highlights from her recent trip to Sri Lanka. As a specialist operator, we’ve recently introduced this captivating destination to our portfolio, and Holly’s insights provide a unique, firsthand perspective on what you can expect. From exploring less-visited regions to enjoying exclusive experiences that are beyond the reach of ordinary travellers, we hope this blog offers you an enticing preview of the exceptional journeys we are proud to offer in Sri Lanka.
I touched down in Colombo slightly ahead of schedule and was welcomed with the smooth efficiency of the Specialist Arrival Service—an absolute must for those seeking a hassle-free start to their Sri Lankan adventure. From the moment I stepped off the plane, I was put at ease, greeted with warm smiles, and whisked through passport control by a friendly concierge. This seamless transition culminated in a private lounge, with refreshments and the opportunity to relax while formalities regarding my luggage and so on were handled on my behalf. My wonderful concierge kindly accompanied me to exchange currency, as Sri Lanka operates a closed currency system.
It was there in the lounge, that I was introduced by our local agents to my driver, Sri—a family man with impeccable English and a deep passion for his homeland. Far more than just a driver, Sri is a qualified guide brimming with knowledge and stories, making every moment of the journey interesting and compelling. His enthusiasm was infectious as he shared tales about Sri Lanka’s national treasures (surprisingly, the national sport isn’t cricket!) and he peppered our conversations with fascinating titbits that painted a vivid picture of the country.
Sri’s storytelling wasn’t limited to history and trivia; he also took it upon himself to teach me some essential Sinhalese phrases from the moment we set off. “Bohoma istuti” (thank you very much) and “Ayubowan” (may you live long) became my first forays into the local language—words delivered with his patient encouragement and a warm smile. Given the vast distances you may cover while exploring Sri Lanka, a skilled driver is essential for ensuring comfort throughout your journey. Sri’s thoughtful attention to detail and cultural insights helped ease the experience, making long travel times feel not only manageable but enriching, there was never a dull moment.
First Stop: Colombo
Even on a restful Sunday, Colombo has its pulse. I suggested Sri take the afternoon off, allowing me some time for solo exploration. I made my way to the Gangaramaya Temple, a peaceful refuge amidst the city’s vibrant energy—a place perfect for quiet reflection and an insight into Sri Lanka’s spiritual depth. Later, Sri called to check in, along with Andrea our local partner, to ensure I was settling in and adjusting well to my surroundings.
Into the Wild: Wilpattu National Park
As we reached the Wilpattu region, Sri bid me farewell for the day, introducing me to Malmi, my dedicated wildlife guide and the head ranger at the camp. From there, I ventured into the untamed beauty of Wilpattu National Park, staying at the truly remote and intimate Leopard Trails Camp. Imagine just six luxurious yet rustic tents (mine did have a pool), tucked deep in the heart of the jungle, with only two of them occupied during my stay. It was a raw, immersive experience—not for the squeamish (yes, there are bugs! And no there isn’t WiFi) but absolutely worth every moment.
Wilpattu, Sri Lanka’s oldest and largest national park, exudes a tranquility that its more famous sibling, Yala, often lacks. Without the crowds, it felt as though the wilderness was mine alone to discover. While the park’s elusive leopards played coy, I was gifted an equally rare and magical sighting of a sloth bear—an unforgettable encounter that felt like a privilege. The park also teems with an array of wildlife: deer, water buffalo ambling through wetlands, mischievous monkeys swinging from treetops and wanting to join our jeep, and an astonishing variety of birds.
Malmi, with his blend of deep expertise and infectious enthusiasm, brought the experience to life. His knowledge seemed boundless, yet he had a way of making every moment feel light and joyful, as though we were old friends sharing an adventure.
Cycling Through History: Anuradhapura
Next came Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka’s ancient capital and a UNESCO World Heritage Site—a place steeped in history and spiritual significance. With Manjula as my guide, I embarked on an exhilarating cycling tour through this remarkable city. Picture this: weaving through narrow backstreets, navigating the seemingly chaotic rhythm of roads teeming with buses, tuk- tuks and motorbikes, all under the blazing 35°C sun. It was a thrilling, pulse-quickening adventure that had me utterly captivated from start to finish.
I was fortunate enough to visit on a Poya Day, a monthly Buddhist holiday, when the usual tourists were replaced by locals immersed in spiritual rituals. The air was thick with the scent of incense, and the temples and stupas radiated a serene energy. To my surprise, I became something of a novelty—many of the buddhists, hailing from remote villages, had never encountered a foreign visitor before. Their excitement was palpable as they eagerly asked for photographs with me, adding an unexpected dimension to the experience.
At midday, we paused by a tranquil riverside, where I was invited into a humble thatched shack surrounded by lush vegetable and fruit gardens. What awaited me there was nothing short of extraordinary—a private feast of approximately 15 freshly prepared local dishes, accompanied by a softly strumming musician in the background. The warmth and generosity of my hosts was overwhelming, and I found myself moved to tears by their hospitality. It was an experience of profound humility and gratitude, a reminder of the beauty of genuine human connection.
Good to know: While I chose to explore by bicycle, it is possible to enjoy the same experience by tuk-tuk, or a blend of both.
A Sunset Like No Other: Ulagalla
By evening Sri safely delivered me to Ulagalla, a sprawling property teeming with wildlife. Monkeys entertained with their acrobatics, and water monitors—like tiny dinosaurs—lurked around every corner. The highlight? A private sunset kayaking experience on the Wanamaduwa Tank, guided by a naturalist. The lake came alive with birdlife and buffalo, painting the kind of scene you’d expect in a David Attenborough documentary. Sadly no elephants this evening, but I am keeping my fingers crossed for some wild sightings at Gal Oya, maybe?!
Climbing Sigiriya and Crocodile Spotting
Another early start saw me at the conservation centre, where I learned about the efforts being made to protect local elephants—often seen as a nuisance to farmers due to their habit of grazing on the paddy fields and pinching coconuts. After a quick breakfast, I was off to my next hotel to drop off my things before preparing for the climb up the iconic Sigiriya Rock Fortress. This UNESCO site, perched 180 metres above the jungle, was once the capital of the parricidal King Kassapa I. The climb was steep and demanding, but Sri, my guide, shared fascinating stories of the fortress as we ascended. The views from the top were nothing short of spectacular, making every step worthwhile.
Later, back at the hotel, I was eager to learn more about the resident crocodiles in the lake below my bungalow. The hotel manager kindly joined me for a crocodile-spotting adventure. Apparently, they are harmless on land—though I wasn’t keen to take any chances!
Whispers of the Hills: Kandy
This morning brought an unexpected gift as we journeyed towards Kandy. Luck seemed to be on my side when Sri spotted an elephant grazing peacefully along the roadside. We quickly pulled over, and there it was—a magnificent creature in its natural habitat. My first wild elephant sighting left me awestruck, almost as if the moment wasn’t real.
As we climbed higher into the hills en route to Kandy, the air turned cooler, and the landscape took on a mysterious quality. Once in the city, we explored the iconic Temple of the Tooth, a sacred site steeped in history. From there, we wandered through bustling markets filled with vibrant energy. I was engrossed by the incredible array of fresh produce—wild tropical fruits, unusual dried fish, and colourful vegetables piled high. The butchers and fishmongers, with their displayed offerings, were a scene unto themselves, unlike anything I’ve experienced before. Kandy has a mysterious aurora that sets it apart. The low-hanging clouds, drifting smoke from nearby paddy fields, and the occasional bursts of rain create an ethereal atmosphere that made me want to linger a little longer.
Into the Wild: Discovering the Untamed Heart of Gal Oya
After a restful evening at the King’s Pavilion, Sri and I ventured deep into Sri Lanka’s wilderness, heading towards Gal Oya National Park—a four-hour journey through increasingly remote terrain. I’d been told to prepare for close wildlife encounters and the chance to meet Sri Lanka’s last indigenous community, the Vedda people. But in truth, I had no idea just how extraordinary this journey would be.
The region is a world apart—undiscovered, unspoiled, and disconnected. At its heart lies a single eco-lodge, nestled in the jungle thicket. With no Wi-Fi and alfresco bathrooms where curious lizards and squirrels observe your every move, this is the ultimate escape into nature. On arrival, I was warmly welcomed by Heshan, who gave me a tour and explained life at Gal Oya. My wildlife guide, Kal, soon became my companion for this incredible journey, ensuring every experience was as intimate and immersive as possible.
The wildlife encounters began almost immediately. Cycling around the jungle’s edge at dusk, I watched buffaloes cooling off in the lakes, only to have a herd amble across our path on the way back. That evening, a jungle night walk revealed a kaleidoscope of unusual insects and reptiles under the starlit canopy.
The next morning started at 5:30 with a private boat safari, and it remains one of the most awe-inspiring moments of my entire life. The journey took me deeper into the park, where we spotted jackals en route to a vast, ocean-like lake. Boarding a military boat with Kal and the crew, we glided across the shimmering water, encountering eagles, spotted deer, and elephants grazing on tiny islands—some bathing just meters from us. Later, we docked on a larger island for a serene picnic breakfast, surrounded by nothing but the sounds of the wilderness and not a soul in sight.
Back at the lodge, a quick swim in the pool was interrupted by the arrival of a giant squirrel. That evening, Kal guided me on a sunset walk where we stumbled upon a python and learned about the jungle’s medicinal plants and their healing properties, as we walked with the Vedda chief.
The following morning brought a pre-dawn climb up Monkey Mountain, an arduous 3.5-hour trek that rewarded us with jaw-dropping views of the landscape waking up to the rising sun.
Gal Oya is raw, rugged, and humbling in every sense. This is nature in its purest form, where time slows, and you reconnect with something profound. For me, it remains my most cherished memory from my travels across Sri Lanka.
Colonial Opulence in the Tea Country
After days immersed in jungle adventures and adrenaline-fueled encounters, the soothing ascent into Sri Lanka’s tea country was a welcome reprieve. Winding through verdant hills on a three-hour journey, the air grew cooler, the views more poetic, and the promise of serenity ever nearer. Yet, rest was fleeting, as I was determined to savour every moment of my two-night stopover in this storied region.
Sri and I ventured to Ella, where we walked the iconic Nine Arch Bridge—a feat of colonial engineering—and climbed the picturesque trails of Little Adam’s Peak, rewarded with sweeping views of tea-laden valleys. By evening, I arrived at my sanctuary in Demodara, an elegant planter’s bungalow that seemed plucked from another era. Intimate and steeped in heritage, it provided a level of luxury that was both indulgent and restorative. A chilled glass of bubbles on arrival was the perfect antidote to the day’s exertions.
The following morning, adventure beckoned once again. I boarded a local train from Demodara to Haputale—a journey of just over an hour but one that will stay with me forever. First-class, while comfortable, lacks the charm of open windows and doors, so I opted to ride as the locals do, with the wind in my hair and the hillside scenery rushing past in a tapestry of green. Sri, ever the guardian and now a dear friend, met me at Haputale to escort me to my next stop—another stately planter’s bungalow.
Here, the gracious butler team welcomed me warmly before Sri and I embarked on another excursion. A tuk-tuk whisked us to Lipton’s Seat, the legendary vantage point named after the tea magnate himself. From there, I trekked through the plantations, weaving between vibrant green bushes dotted with Tamil women delicately plucking the finest leaves. Their warmth was infectious as they greeted me with smiles. We paused at a local school where curious girls gathered, their shy giggles turning to confidence as they practiced their English and posed for photographs.
Returning to my bungalow, a sumptuous high tea awaited me on the manicured lawn. With views stretching over the infinity pool and the rolling tea fields beyond, I indulged in delicate pastries and fragrant brews, savouring the timeless charm of Sri Lanka’s tea country. It was a day steeped in heritage, hospitality, and the quiet luxury of life slowed to a perfect pace.
Last But Not Least: The South Coast
As my time in Sri Lanka drew to a close, Sri and I embarked on our final adventure—a scenic five-hour drive to explore the treasures of the South Coast. The stretch from Ahangama to Weligama, Unawatuna, and Galle offered a vivid tapestry of culture, adventure, and coastal splendour. Visiting in September, the region revealed its untamed character, with dramatic waves crashing against the shore and bursts of tropical sunshine interspersed with refreshing rain showers. The off-season added a certain wild allure, where the beaches were quieter, and the landscapes seemed to breathe more freely.
My stay at Tekanda Lodge really stood apart. This sustainable ecolodge sits in harmony with its surroundings, not only in its eco-conscious practices but also through its inspiring initiatives like the Tekanda Girls Cricket Academy. Meeting the local community and learning about their efforts to bridge urban-rural divides through sports left a profound impression.
In Galle Fort, my journey concluded with an enchanting, guided walk through the fort’s cobbled streets. Accompanied by resident expert Praveen as my local guide, I discovered hidden corners of this colonial-era gem, from the legal offices still using typewriters to timeworn traditions preserved in this vibrant enclave- it was a wonderful way to spend an afternoon. While the South is undeniably more touristic, its soul remains intact, blending fascinating history, flavourful cuisine—fish curries being a highlight—and many opportunities for wildlife excursions such as whale watching.
Sri Lanka, you exceeded every expectation, brimming with wildlife, rich culture, delectable cuisine, and the warmest hospitality. A heartfelt thanks to Sri for his unwavering dedication and exceptional care throughout my journey.